Thruster zinc replacement
To remove the thruster prop for zinc replacement, is a special puller tool required, or can I just remove the prop by unscrewing the nut on the front of the prop? My thrusters are the Vetus 55, with the six blade plastic props. Thanks.
Steve Heath
CHB 3608
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zinc r&r
Easy to do. No special tools.
Should definately be done during annual haulout.
You may be able to second source zincs as the ones from Vetus are pricey.
To change remove 2 phillips screws from plastic red caps.
The caps are 2 piece and will split apart. They only go together one way. Just look when you pull them off.
Next you will need a small allen key which is supplied with new zincs.
Remove 2 allen screws and off pops zinc. If you have not done it in over a year there will probably be nothing left of the old one.
I moor in freshwater and they are gone in 1 season. Pretty small zincs but there you go.
Replace zincs with new screws provided. Don't use threadlocker.
DO NOT overtighten screws into plastic caps.
Another product you may be interested in installing at the same time is a linecutter. The one I installed and was the simplest I could find is called "prop-protector"
Check it out on their movie .
http://www.prop-protector.com/
Happy haul-out
Mark
XXIV VII
Bottom job
Just an update for anyone that might be interested. Our bottom job went quite well and yes the thruster zincs were long gone but no apparent damage to any of the thruster hardware. The change out went very well with no surprises, so thanks Mark for your helpful directions. For what it’s worth, we used Seaview West at Shilshole Marina, Seattle for the haul out, pressure wash and prep. We painted the boat ourselves using Blue Water Copper Shield SCX 45 ablative paint which rated good to excellent in the recent Practical Sailor test. Although you need to be careful that they don’t start running up the bill with things like “extra prep” and such, we found the people at Seaview West very helpful, accommodating and professional. - Steve Heath
Zinc R&R
Mark, thanks so much for the reply. I was asking more about the prop itself. After removing the prop nut on the front, does the prop come straight off the shaft? Thanks.
Steve
prop R&R
Steve
Remove allen bolt and prop falls off. Aligned by a pin. Only fits one way.
Pretty simple , no puller needed.
Watch vid , halfway thru it shows you what to expect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13oHxplDFNc
Good luck
Mark
prop R&R
Thanks Mark. I guess there's a video for almost everything! I would never have thought. Anyway it does give me a better idea of what to expect. I'm trying to eliminate as many surprises as possible before our first haul out coming this March. I fully expect the thruster zincs to be completely gone, as it's been since July 2007 we took delivery of the boat, making it over 3 seasons without thruster zinc replacement. I have tried to compensate for thruster zinc deterioration by hanging fore and aft grouper zincs that are tied directly into the boat's bonding system, so we'll see how effective that is. It seems the Vetus design requiring prop removal to replace zincs is less than optimum to say the least. Seems like there should be some type of end cap zinc, like other thruster designs have..., it would be a lot easier. Anyway, thanks so much for your help. - Steve
zincs
Steve, if its been that long they will be cooked for sure. I went 2 yrs figuring I would be OK cause I moor in the river but they were gone. But replacing them is a snap. You might find a blade or 2 chipped though, I did. I bought a spare and replaced both props with the upgraded blades as mine came with the 4 bladed types. Hull 4215.
Only downside to the zincs is they are expensive . 3x as much as prop zincs and they are 1/4 the size. Check with Malcolm, he might have second sourced some.
What I do now is arrange for a survey haul where the yard lifts the boat then the guy goes for a coffee for an hour and leaves it hanging in the slings. You have plenty of time to r&r all the zincs. But on my first haulout I also redid the bottom paint and buffed the hull so I had them block the boat for a couple of days.
I also hang a fish zinc off the stern to counteract the bozo's at my marina who use Crappy Tire extension cords. Doubt they really do anything , but it makes me feel good.
Slowing Zinc decay and Safety
I have also seen Vetus thruster zincs gone on NP 39001 - and concur that they go very fast. My theory is that DC current from the AC ground to water caused by the Bozos Mark mentions is the issue. So my plan this spring is to add a Charles Industries Isolation transformer for the AC input. The idea is to completely cut any DC connection between our boat and the dock grounding system. That is the path that can kill off the small zincs on the thrusters.
The other concern is that the water heater element is grounded as well and can cause some serious corrosion to the water heater interior (see the fine print in the manuals etc) if the water is "hard" meaning enough metal ions to carry a little electricity.
So to protect the water heater and zincs the best thing to do is completely disconnect the boat DC (hard wired connection) component and allow only AC to pass. This is really recommended in Passagemaker and several other places. The other reason to have a transformer is to prevent electrocution in a marina if someone falls in. I have read some very sad stories about stray current from improperly grounded boats killing people swimming nearby. A diver etc is in grave risk as well.
So that is my next step. I'll let you know how my new zincs put on in October fair this fall after the changes.
DaveV
Zincs, thrusters and galvanic corrosion
Thanks guys for the helpful discussion! But yea, I'm quite sure I'll find no thruster zincs left as well. Hopefully, through the bonding connection and use of groupers when at dock, there will be no damage to the bronze elbow fittings. I've been buying all my zincs at http://www.boatzincs.com/vetus.html and the Vetus zincs are between $22 and $25 each depending on model. They have free shipping, they're quick and responsive and also have good prices on Blue Water bottom paint, which received a very good rating on recent Practical Sailor tests. But so far my boat has not really gone through zincs. I've only change them out once since the boat was new. I dive the boat myself (at anchor away from any docks), so I'm able to keep a pretty close eye on things. I did install a galvanic isolator right after delivery,and every so often I make sure the diodes are open, so maybe that's helped. I did consider the isolation transformer, but size, weight and heat were a concern, but Dave you are right, an isolation transformer is the only real way to be completely isolated from the Bozos. What I don't really understand is your comment regarding disconnecting the boat DC hard wire connection. Could you expand on that? Thanks. - Steve
Zincs
Thanks Steve
Bookmarked the zinc page and will buy 10 or so.
Good for 5 yrs.
Great price as I was paying double.
My Cardiologist says I'm good for 5 more years at least , so hopefully I will be able to put in another order in 2015!
If not................the old Lady can get her pool boy to deal with the friggin zincs eh!
Boat zincs and pool boys
All good news Mark...., I guess, and glad I could help. I've found that boatzincs.com really is good on price, quick with the deliveries and with free shipping (not sure if that's offered for Canada deliveries) they really help keep the prices down. BTW, all the hull, shaft and rudder zincs are made in Canada, not China!!! - Steve